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Tintern Abbey

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Written by Caroline Chaplin Friday, 21 May 2010 17:40

Tintern Abbey 

Ruins of the refectory. "You will find among the woods something you cannot find in books."
-- St. Bernard of Clairvaux

Tintern Abbey is a 12th-century Cistercian abbey standing in picturesque ruins on the southeastern border of Wales. Tintern was the first Cistercian monastery founded in Wales and only the second to be founded in all of Britain.

Now among the most spectacular ruins in the country, Tintern Abbey inspired a William Wordsworth poem and more than one painting by J.M.W. Turner.

History
Just three decades after the birth of the Cistercian order, land was granted and an abbey was founded at Tintern in 1131 by the Anglo-Norman lord of Chepstow, Walter fitz Richard of Clare. The initial community of Cisterican monks arrived at Tintern from an influential mother house of l'Aumône, in north-central France.

Worked by a growing army of lay brothers, the Tintern estates were organized around characteristic Cistercian farms known as granges. At first, the monks probably lived and worshipped in a temporary arrangement of wooden buildings, though within a few decades of their arrival they had erected a modest stone church and associated cloister ranges.

Further growth of the community led to an expansion of the monastic buildings during the first half of the 13th century. Tintern's greatest glory, the superb Gothic church which still dominates the landscape, was begun in 1269. It was consecrated in 1301 in the presence of the patron, Roger Bigod, fifth earl of Norfolk.

The later Middle Ages witnessed Tintern Abbey's departure from early Cistercian ideals, exacerbated by the impact of the Black Plague (1348-49) and by the effects of a Welsh uprising in 1400-15. Nevertheless, monastic life at Tintern continued to flourish, with further limited building programs carried out until the Reformation. In 1326 King Edward II visited Tintern and spent two nights there.

Tintern Abbey was surrendered to King Henry VIII's visitors on September 3, 1536, during the first round in Henry's suppression of monasteries. Thus ended the simple way of life that had been pursued at Tintern for 400 years.

A few months later, the buildings and local possessions were granted to Henry Somerset, earl of Worcester. He sold lead from the roof and began to lease out parts of the site. Soon the abbey area was crowded with cottages and early industrial buildings.

Tintern lay forgotten until the late 18th century, when the ruins were discovered by Romantic artists and poets in search of the "Sublime" and "Picturesque." The railway brought still more tourists after 1876, and in 1901 the site was rescued when it was purchased by the Crown. Major conservation works were carried out between 1901 and 1928, which included removing the ivy considered so romantic by the early tourists.

What to See
The ruins of Tintern Abbey are beautiful. The grand Gothic abbey church, carpeted in green grass and open to the sky, is especially enchanting. Enough of the foundations of the rest of the abbey buildings remain that, with the help of good signs provided by Welsh Heritage, enable you to imagine medieval monastic life at Tintern. There is a large car park and tickets are bought from a shop that offers books, music, and local Celtic crafts.

The west front of the abbey church is the most famous and elaborate part of Tintern Abbey that still stands, and it is the best place to begin a self-guided tour. This Gothic church was built in the late 13th to early 14th century to replace a simpler Romanesque structure of the monastery's early years.

The nave, the central hall of the church, was designed as the lay brothers' choir. Screen walls divided off aisles to the north and south. A great decorative screen, the pulpitum, ran across the width of the nave at this point. Carved pieces of this now lie on the nave floor for visitors' close inspection.

Under the crossing, where the nave and transepts meet, the monks attended their services in the choir. The north and south transepts provided additional chapel space. In the north transept is the night stair to the monks' dormitory, providing indoor passage to the church for 2am services. In the east end of the abbey church is the presbytery, where the altar was located and whose east window is still impressive.

Adjacent to the church is the cloister, whose passages which linked the monastic buildings on three sides. This is where the monks spent most of their time when not at prayer in the church. The covered passages themselves provided living space for reading, study and meditation, and perhaps even doing laundry.

Next to the cloister and adjacent to the north transept is the chapter house, where the monks met each day to hear Benedict's Rule read and to conduct regular abbey business. A roofline on the outside of the north transept shows where the monks' dormitory once stood, on the upper floor.

Across a walkway from the chapter house is the monk's day room, a vaulted hall probably used as a work room and/or as a novice's lodging. West of the day room was the small warming house, one of very few rooms with a fireplace.

Further on to the west is the refectory, a handsome hall where the monks took their one vegetarian meal each day. Next door to this was the kitchen where the meals were prepared for both the monks and the lay brothers, the latter of which lived in the west range, the last area before the entrance road.

West of the north transept, next to the monks' day room, is the infirmary cloister. Here sick monks could take in the fresh air and admire a central garden close to the infirmary hall. The hall was large, comfortable and heated, and in later centuries was divided into private apartments.

Next to this was the infirmary kitchen, which probably also served the nearby abbot's private chamber. The latter had its own private chapel attached. An abbot's hall was added in the 14th century, where the abbot could entertain important guests.
This article is taken from http://www.sacred-destinations.com/wales/tintern-abbey. You can find details of many sacred destination holidays on this website.

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Tintern's abbey church and lovely countryside. Photo  Rob Stradling.

 

Shark Cage Diving

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Last Updated on Saturday, 23 May 2009 16:52 Written by Caroline Chaplin Saturday, 23 May 2009 16:51

 
Jaws Truly – Shark cave diving by Elizabeth Norton
 
I was nervous with excitement at the prospect of coming eyeball to eyeball with a killing machine, even my fear-induced trip to the ladies did nothing to calm me down. During the mandatory pre-dive video, we’d seen footage of a shark manoeuvring itself through the bars and joining a poor guy inside the cage! “Doesn’t happen too often” the guide assured us. Wonder if the dude in the cage got his money back (or the watch which used to be on the arm which he used to have)? Our group of ten was now ready to rock ‘n roll so we headed down to the harbour. We were taken to a smallish, but sturdy looking vessel, similar in size to the fishing boat which got smashed to oblivion in Jaws. Somehow I had expected to board a battleship-sized asylum in which I would be safe from all the elements below us. The sides of this boat were awfully close to the water and I was sure that a shark would have no problem leaping into it. And I’m sure the fibreglass hull had recently been checked for cracks……..!
 
We hopped on and sped off, the power of the propellers taking us closer and closer to Jaws with every rotation of their blades. Protocol on the short trip is to stay seated, the boat’s not stopping if you fall off. My worst fear is to tread water without knowing what lies beneath. Only in this part of the Indian Ocean you know exactly what’s down there. Surfers from around the world clench whenever a shadow lurks below. My surfboard lies in a shop window for that very reason. But today I was putting my phobias aside. And the cage was going to be my best friend. 
 
After a 20 minute coccyx cracking boat ride we anchored near a seal colony, Dyer Island, in a spot aptly named Shark Alley. Sharks are surface feeders so dropping anchor near three thousand splashing plump edible seals usually results in a lot of visual activity for us land lubbers. As the seals barked, the swells rolled the boat from side to side and the seagulls overhead squawked, it was clear we had arrived in their territory and were about to witness sea life in its rawest form. Suddenly a commotion occurred. We craned our necks overboard anticipating a shark. Instead, a 200kg Seal rose from the depths having caught himself a fish. The blood dripping from its furry lips was an added bonus to the chum (a mixture of smelly blood and guts) that the crew throw overboard, hoping to lure the sharks nearer. 
 
Although Great Whites are seen throughout the year, the months from May through October are considered to be the best times for viewing. In the summer, some operators have permits to operate closer to the beaches, where the sharks are more prominent around that time of the year. Once kitted up in the supplied diving gear I sat on the edge of the boat, wary of my feet dangling dangerously close to the leftover pieces of flesh half submerged in front of me. My thoughts drifted to the shark victims of the world. It’s been feared that chumming has brought an increase of shark activity to beaches around the Western Cape in particular. But in fact, fishing boats actually place far more chum into the sea than shark boats do. Sharks are not actually drawn into any area as a result of chumming, the sharks are already there and all the chum does is attract the shark’s attention to a specific spot, which in this case was my feet. 
 
“Ready?” The skipper threw the words at me with an anxious tone. The seals were extra feisty today and the seagulls more prominent. This meant that the sharks were more likely to be in the vicinity and he wanted me inside the cage as soon as possible. He didn’t like his clientele dangling precariously over the edge. I pin dropped into the cage. The mesh roof was closed on top of me and I placed the breathing apparatus inside of my mouth. Different operators have different theories about whether or not breathing equipment should be used or not. Some prefer the divers to hold their breath and submerge, then pop up periodically and take in more air. I preferred the idea of staying underwater, so it’s a good thing to check with the operators which method they employ. The skipper pumped his hand in a downwards motion at me to say breath slower. The speed of my breathing increased, and I sank below the surface of the water.
 
Suddenly it was silent. My eyes took a minute to adjust to the murky green blanket of water that lay before me. The rays of sun penetrated the surface, but eventually faded leaving the dark depths of the sea for me to contemplate alone. I stood there, suspended by the buoyancy of my wetsuit. Waiting. My eyes darting from corner to corner of the cage. I rattled it to make sure everything was sturdy. It was terrifying in an addictive way. It was like standing in the middle of a railway track, your feet strapped to the sleepers, anticipating the train that you know is just around the corner. My chest tightened. 
 
After almost 5 eye bulging minutes, to the left of me I saw movement which quickly turned into a shark darting in my direction. Its tail swiped from side to side and its fiery eyes fixed onto me in a devilish stare. The shark suddenly headed for the surface, launching up out of the water and crashing down again, deeper into the sea this time, now under the cage that I was in. I could hear the muffled shrieks of my fellow adventurers, distorted by the dense water. Then there was silence again, but not for long. I was bumped from underneath, the shark circled and then briefly stared at me with a departing glare. Not long after, another shark swam nearer. This one was about 4 metres long. It glided by, seemingly more interested in the boat’s propeller than in me. What a spectacle!! I could barely believe where I was. Although you float only a foot underwater, its enough to let you be part of the shark’s realm. Ten minutes are up and I’m hauled out of the cage and back to reality. It’s an incredible sense of achievement and I can’t wait to tell my friends all about my dice with death....
 
The rest of the afternoon was spent watching fins and shadows circling the boat, and sharks surfacing to take a handful of meat from the skipper at the back of the boat. All diving companies supply a good lunch and maybe a thirst quencher or two, but perhaps it’s a good idea to take a few extra snacks and a beer or three (it’s quite a draining day). All members of the party take turns to enter the cage in pairs or groups of three, and if the sharks are in abundance, divers can have several turns to go in. By the end of the day I’d had my fill - exhausted and a newly converted shark lady. We headed back to dry land. 
 
Gansbaai is the most densely populated area for Great White Sharks in the world which has resulted in this previously small unknown village in South Africa becoming a booming shark mecca that the world has now discovered.   
 
 
 
 
 

Vietnam

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Written by Caroline Chaplin Saturday, 23 May 2009 16:50

 Descendants of the Dragon - Vietnam - by Kim Cochrane
 
According to ancient creation myth, the Vietnamese believe they are descended from a dragon king (Lạc Long Quân) and the fairy Âu Cơ, whose union bore 100 eggs that hatched into 100 sons. Because the dragon was a water creature and the fairy of the land, they decided to separate – the mother took 50 sons to the highlands and 50 went with the father to the coast. The eldest son later founded the Hung Vuong dynasty. And so it began. 
 
Despite seemingly harmonious origins, Vietnam’s past, however, is characterised by a continuous struggle for autonomy – yet it is this rich history, from years of Chinese domination through to the more modern influences of French colonialism and the turbulent independence movement of the mid-20th century, that gives the country part of its appeal, believes Pieter Erasmus, sales and product development manager for Royal African Discoveries, agents in Southern Africa for the Australian-based tour operator, Wendy Wu Tours. 
 
Wendy Wu Tours is a new entrant in the SA marketplace and has only recently launched its fully-inclusive set-departure Vietnam tours for SA travellers. Yet Erasmus has already noted an increase in the number of South Africans wanting to visit the destination, especially because it is being embraced worldwide for its mystical natural beauty, cultural resources, friendly and inquisitive locals as well as delicious food. 
 
Tour operators agree with the sentiments of Angela Wood, Thompsons Tours marketing manager, that Vietnam is now the ‘in’ destination, possibly because many South Africans have already explored well-known favourites such as Thailand or Malaysia and are looking for something unusual. 
 
Vietnam is also comparatively affordable, whether you’re a backpacker, a senior traveller or a family looking for a beach holiday of snorkelling and seafood along the central coastal region of Nha Trang (famous for its beaches and swallow’s nest soup) or Danang. But that said, Vietnam is not for visitors hoping to languish in one spot – the destination deserves a more thorough inspection to truly appreciate its wonders. 
 
So what are these attractions that you shouldn’t miss?
 
In a nutshell, Vietnam is an amalgamation of historical sites, rural patchworks of lush green rice paddies tended by workers in conical hats, soaring mountains, misty forests and vast waterways such as the famous Mekong Delta, the lifeblood of southern Vietnam, and the Red River Delta (which contains Hanoi, the capital of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam). 
 
The Mekong Delta, fondly referred to as the country’s ‘nine-tailed dragon’ and also the ‘Rice Basket of Vietnam’; can be visited during a day trip out of Ho Chi Minh City (previously Saigon) or enjoyed for longer periods to delve into the traditional life of fishing villages. 
 
Erasmus believes travellers are searching for more interaction with locals in their tour experiences and therefore recommends a home stay in the Mekong Delta and Maui Chau, overnight cruising on junk boats or partaking in cooking classes, the latter incorporating the purchase of ingredients at markets as well as preparing the food.
 
If you’re interested in the Vietnam War, China Experience Trade & Tours ceo and director, Benjamin Zhang, suggests you visit – and crawl through – the legendary Cu Chi Tunnels (an underground military network of fighting posts, chambers and living quarters) outside Ho Chi Minh City – and also include the city’s War Remnants Museum on your itinerary. 
 
Other attractions include visiting the Reunification Palace, Notre Dame Cathedral, a lacquerware workshop, Ben Thanh Market as well as the Cao Dai Cathedral in Tay Ninh.
The UNESCO World Heritage Site Halong Bay is a must for a boat trip that takes in the bizarre limestone monolithic islands topped with vegetation rising from the ocean. According to legend, the islands were formed by a dragon and its efforts have resulted in some of the country’s most stunning scenery. 
 
Also highly recommended is My Son (a sanctuary of religious relics) in Central Vietnam near the lively World Heritage-listed town of Hoi An, which is famous for its traditional homes, handicrafts (including bargain-priced, tailor-made clothes) and ancient buildings. Try not to overlook the Japanese Covered Bridge although according to Wood, Hoi An has a distinctive Chinese atmosphere with its low tiled-roof houses (many of which were constructed with rare timbers and decorated with engraved lacquer panels) and narrow streets.
 
First-time visitors also shouldn’t miss Hanoi, often referred to as the ‘Paris of the Orient’ with its lakes, tree-lined boulevards and French villas. A must-see is the Old Quarter, with its centuries-old ‘tunnel houses’, and Zhang recommends a pedi-cab ride through the trading streets. Other attractions include the Temple of Literature (Vietnam’s first university founded in 1070), One Pillar Pagoda, Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum (closed on Mondays and Fridays), West Lake, Hoa Lo Prison Museum (where the US POWs were kept), Fine Arts Museum and a water puppetry performance (a traditional art form dating back to the 11th century). Thompsons Tours offers an afternoon tour to the Bat Trang pottery village just outside Hanoi where you can watch the artisans at work.
 
Hue, the cultural centre in central Vietnam, has a fascinating imperial history with its claim to fame being the royal citadel, an imperial city and the tomb of Emperor Tu Duc. The city is bisected by the Perfume River, named for the fragrance of fallen flowers that drift down the river, and Thompsons Tours proposes visiting Dong Ba market where conical hats are made. For a spectacular road journey, depart via the Hai Van Pass that links the port town of Danang and Hue. 
 
Spencer Neal, an adventure travel specialist at Development Promotions, which sells The Imaginative Traveller’s products (including Vietnam) in SA, believes because of its relative isolation and lack of tourism promotion, Vietnam has retained that off-the-beaten-track feel. He says it’s a super destination for active travellers who want to combine culture with adventures such as kayaking in Halong Bay, going for a ride on a cyclo (cycle rickshaw), bicycling amongst the villages and rice paddies or attempting a mountain trek.
 
If you do enjoy trekking and you’d like to interact with the hill tribes, you could visit the old French hill station of Sapa set amongst the Hoang Lien Son mountain range in the north. Or you could make your way to Dalat, suggests Erasmus, which is a hill station retreat surrounded by lakes, valleys and waterfalls – as well as a favourite destination for romantics. 
 
Shaped like an elongated ‘S’, Vietnam stretches the length of the Indochinese Peninsula and is roughly the size of Italy. China lies to the north, Laos and Cambodia to the west and the South China Sea to the east. For this reason, both Cambodia and Laos are easy add-ons to Vietnam itineraries. If your trip begins in the south of Vietnam, Wendy Wu Tours recommends that you first visit Cambodia – or visit it afterwards if your Vietnam tour ends in the south. The same can be done with Laos and the north of Vietnam. China Experience Trade & Tours also offers various packages to Vietnam and its surrounding Indochinese neighbours. 
 
Zhang sees Vietnam as becoming another economical tiger in Southeast Asia before long. In his view, there will come a day in the near future when Vietnam won’t be as affordable as it is today and with all the development and globalisation, it may somehow lose some of its traditions and unspoilt charm. His advice: go to Vietnam before it is too late.
 
There’s a saying that if you can’t take the heat, don’t tickle the dragon. 
But you can, at least, pay him – and his country – a visit ….     
 
 
What you need to know
• Air: There are many ways of getting into Vietnam – the main ports are via Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. Travel with Cathay Pacific Airways to Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi. While travelling within Vietnam, the official airline is Vietnam Airlines. Check-in baggage allowance is strict (no more than 20kg). 
• Climate: Packing can be difficult, as the climate varies so much depending on when and where you go. While Hanoi is cold enough to warrant a coat from December to February, this is an excellent time to visit Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta. From April to October, most of the country is affected by south-western monsoons. Travel to remote areas may be affected by the rains, but overall they should not interfere with your trip. The summer months are the perfect time to visit Ha Long Bay, as the water is warm enough for swimming. Northern Vietnam is at its loveliest from September to December when there’s a good chance of clear skies and low humidity. The hottest months in Ho Chi Minh City are April and May. The central highland town of Dalat is temperate year-round. There is no ‘off’ season in Vietnam. 
• Currency: The Vietnam dong (VND) is available in denominations ranging from 200 to 100 000 dong notes! You’ll find money-changers in Vietnam’s airports, banks and some high-end hotels. Many banks (open Monday to Friday) issue cash advances for Visa and MasterCard, usually for a 3% commission. Credit cards and travellers’ cheques are widely accepted in big cities. American dollars are welcomed in most hotels and higher-end restaurants, although you’ll need dong for taxis and in smaller shops. The current exchange rate is around 15,760 to the US dollar. ATMs are available in all major cities and towns.
• Customs: Complete the customs declaration form upon arrival and attach it to your passport, as you have to show it for departure/exit.
• Festivals: A number of festivals and festivities take place after Vietnamese New Year (February 7, 2008) such as the Harvest Festival and Ke Pagoda Festival. 
• Getting around: Since the road infrastructure is underdeveloped (with many potholes), travelling is a slow process (traffic is also heavy in the cities). The Reunification Express train is a great way to meet locals. Remember Vietnam is a country of bicycles, which is something to see and experience – especially when you’re trying to cross a busy city street. 
• Shopping and shipping: If you go shopping, bargaining is necessary. It’s also recommended that you check prices of the same items in the neighbourhood before reaching a deal. If you choose to ship items home, purchase shipping insurance and check the policy details, as shops are not responsible for damages incurred en route.
• Visas: South African passport holders require visas for Vietnam, which can be obtained at the Vietnam Embassy in Pretoria. 
Source: China Experience Trade & Tours, Development Promotions, Thompsons Tours, Wendy Wu Tours
 
   

Buenos Airies

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Written by Caroline Chaplin Saturday, 23 May 2009 16:48

Fairwinds in full colour - Buenos Aires
 by Simon Capstick-Dale
 
The droning voice of the captain came acutely into my awareness as I opened my eyes and I surveyed an overcast and humid summer morning in Buenos Aires. I had embarked on a two week holiday with my girlfriend and father setting off from Cape Town to Argentina’s Capital via Sao Paulo in Brazil. I had boarded the plane with nothing on my person but a bottle of Bombay Sapphire Gin and my iPod walkman, not knowing what lay ahead. I knew little of the city besides its reputation for dancing the Tango and cooking a great steak.
 
Buenos Aires (in English, ‘Fair Winds’) with a population of just over 13 million people is the financial, industrial, commercial and cultural hub of Argentina. This capital city has become one of the most developed and sophisticated cities in Latin America since being discovered by Spaniards in search of gold in 1536. 
 
Colonised by Europe, Buenos Aires is very much a European city. The architecture, food, clothing and the cultural interests of the people are heavily influenced by European tradition setting it apart from other South American cities like Rio de Janeiro, Brazil or Lima, Peru. The people of Buenos Aires are often referred to as Porteños (‘people of the port’), acquiring the name through their trade with the Spanish from the ports of Buenos Aires during the 17th and 18th century. Porteños are mainly of Spanish and Italian descent and are very proud of their European heritage, which is reflected in the composition of the city.
 
Unlike most of South America, Buenos Aires is extraordinarily organised, squeaky clean, and runs as smoothly as an old Rolex. The bustle of commuting, trade and locals nattering can be heard from every street corner in the city. Transport is exceptionally efficient in the city. I found the cabs the most handy with thousands of them circling the grand avenues constantly, the going rate being around four pesos a kilometre, the equivalent of about R8.50. ‘Colectivos’ (Buses) are also a cheap way to get around and are very reliable. The underground Metro is another way to travel but it does not go to all parts of the city. However, unless you really need to make use of public transport, walk. This way you’ll get a better feel for the city and its various districts. The Internet cafés or cibercafés have fast ADSL internet access and are located all over the city. Most Porteños are more than capable and willing to speak English so don’t worry about bringing along your phrase book (Unlike many of the French, Porteños welcome the ignorant smile and foreign accent of tourists). 
 
Hotels, food and entertainment are generally very reasonably priced. Buenos Aires is also one of the fashion capitals of the world, making it a great place to shop for the latest season trends, even though you may find yourself window-shopping more often than not (clothes, unlike nearly everything else, are rather pricey). Shopping can be done by day or night as shops close at around 10pm, some at midnight. The most popular shopping areas are Florida Street and Santa Fe Avenue. A good way to shop for those without too much buck in their back-burner is to take a stroll down the lengthy Santa Fe Ave, where shops are not all designer boutiques and are generally reasonably priced. Santa Fe is also one of the main commercial areas of the city, which boasts exquisite hotels and mansions. The majority of luxurious and expensive designer boutiques are located in the suburb of Recoleta, which contrast with the many cheap craft markets also found here, selling everything from jewellery to designer toilet seats. Every Sunday, there is an enormous antique market in the San Telmo district. This very intriguing market is held in Dorrego Square, the second oldest square in the city. Most of the people who live in the square have recycled their homes into liveable antique shops.
 
Despite the many activities and places of interest, as a tourist on foreign turf I often find the experience of watching everyday happenings in the street more rewarding than visiting the more tangible tourist attractions like cathedrals and museums. Porteños are very loud, vibrant and eccentric people and I found myself completely absorbed by them. Wining and dining at the street cafes and tasteful restaurants whilst watching the city’s goings-on from behind a steaming cappuccino or a bottle of Argentinean wine is by no means a drab affair for a foreigner in Buenos Aires. For Porteños, cafés are a definitive aspect of the social life of the city. Meetings at these establishments are most characteristic of their identity. An invitation between Porteños for a coffee may lead to a friendly chat, a love affair or a business deal. A favourite Café among many Porteños is ‘El Tortoni,’ which attracts few tourists but is said to be archetypal of Porteño café life.
 
However, this is not to say that there isn’t a great deal to do in Buenos Aires, there are a myriad of activities and places to visit in this eloquent city. During the day, one can visit the Teatro Colón, one of the world’s most famous opera houses. For a feel of the cultural background, there are museums of history, fine art, decorative art and popular music. A night at one of the city’s many theatres is also a great way to spend an evening. There’s a world renowned zoo, several botanical gardens and architecturally exquisite churches, such as the city’s oldest, San Ignacio’s Church. One can buy a take-away lunch and eat in the many lusciously landscaped parks and squares all around the city, or walk along one of Buenos Aires’s most attractive avenues, the Avenida de Mayo. This avenue is an integral part of the history of the city and also serves as a landmark of the numerous waves of immigrants that fled into Buenos Aires in past centuries, and also the starting point of Congress Square, where the Government house (‘Pink House’) is located. Another place I found of particular interest was Puerto Madero, which was once a section of old docks and warehouses but has recently been renovated into modern offices, lavish restaurants, cinemas, a remarkable exhibition centre and a floating casino. Another site of interest, which is very hard not to notice is The Obelisk, erected to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the founding of Buenos Aires, and is a common symbol of the city, the Eiffel Tower of Argentina you could say.
 
Argentineans are absolutely nutty over football. In fact, there is an entire soccer suburb or district, La Boca, painted bright blue and yellow (their team colours) in dedication to their team. With statues of the club’s famous players peering over balconies overlooking the streets, La Boca is certainly worthwhile visiting. The streets in this district offer the tourist something very different in terms of the architectural contrast, having a far more ‘South American feel’ than commercial centre counterparts. Buenos Aires has the highest concentration of football teams of any city in the world, with many of its teams playing in international leagues. The rivalry between the Boca Juniors, as the team from La Boca are known, and River Plate, another Buenos Aires club, is intense. So much so, in fact, that a match between these two teams was said by The Observer newspaper to be the number one sporting event to watch before dying! The La Boca football stadium itself should not be missed, the sanctuary of the biggest Argentinean passion. There is also a fantastic market in the heart of La Boca selling mostly paintings and clothing.
 
There are just as many things to get up to at night in Buenos Aires. Porteños eat extravagantly and party hard - sleep is for the dead. A Tango show is always a very popular option, perhaps clichéd but unarguably impressive. There are many places one can watch the Tango, especially in the Tango district, San Telmo. Many tango clubs include a dinner along with the show. One can often witness free shows during the day in the streets all over the city. For those into less conventional forms of dance, there are dance clubs aplenty, including the world famous Pacha. But beware: clubbing doesn’t start before 1am so make sure to have a good meal to keep you going all night. Another option is to dine at one of the city’s brilliant restaurants, but don’t go out too early as you will be sitting alone. Porteños don’t usually eat before 10pm at both restaurants and at home. It is not uncommon for a Porteño businessman to go to a restaurant for drinks and watch football after work at 6pm until his family meets him at the restaurant at around 10pm to sit down to a meal. Watch out for an immense contrast in price from one eatery to the next, which is not always apparent in the way the restaurant or café presents itself. Often a rather exclusive looking spot is cheaper than a more inexpensive looking one, and vice versa. One can avoid making the wrong decision by perusing the prices on the menu which nearly always stands prominently outside or in the window of the establishment.
 
There are tastes for everyone in Buenos Aires, whether you’re into hamburgers or lobster tail. Very popular among locals and tourists alike is Argentinean steak, which I’d personally recommend, but there really is an endless variety of alternatives. Argentina is famous for the quality of its meat, so try not pass it up. A very popular meal is Parrillada, a mixed grill of steak, intestines, kidneys and blood sausage. This meal is accompanied by chimichurri, a delighfully sweet marinade, the recipe of which, despite my efforts, no Porteño would disclose. Other local cuisine includes a wide variety of regional dishes influenced by the immigrants who settled in Buenos Aires from Europe and Asia. Italian, Spanish, Japanese, French, Nordic, Mexican, Chinese, Arab, Turkish and Armenian restaurants can be found in the city. There are also numerous restaurants that serve vegetarian and aphrodisiac food.
 
For a quick snack, local fast-food establishments called ‘minutas,’ serve tastier and far healthier food than commercial “burgers and pizza” fast-food joints. Dishes such as milanesa (breaded meat) and empanadas (similar to samoosas but with more exotic ingredients) are often served in bars or as starters in restaurants. Fresh fruits, ice cream and dulce de leche (cremé caramel) are dessert favourites among Porteños. Argentinean people drink Maté, a traditional drink made from dried leaves of the herb Yerba Mate. These locals can be seen drinking Maté at social settings in all corners of the city. It is sipped from a cured wooden bowl, or calabash gourd, through a bombilla (metal straw) which serves as both a filter and straw. Maté is sold either as a raw tea (Maté), which is filtered before being consumed,  or in a tea bag (Maté Cocido) for the less brave. Personally, I found the latter very pleasant and bought some to take home with me. Maté cups are sold in nearly every curio shop in Buenos Aires as souvenirs for tourists. Despite the streams of tourists carrying these cups in their luggage on departure, I was searched and interrogated by an airport official when he thought my Maté cup was some sort of explosive! 
 
The highlight of my experience and something that I would strongly recommend to anyone visiting Buenos Aires, is a tour to a cattle ranch called Fiesta de Los Gauchos. Just over an hour’s drive north of the city centre  lies the economic heartland of B.A., the Pampa. Gauchos on horseback roamed the Pampa countryside as early as the 1600s, when the flatlands were overpopulated with ‘Cimarron’ cattle. Gauchos slaughtered these cattle not for their meat, but for their leather, which was heavily traded with the old colonies of the time. This vast stretch of flatland is the agricultural backbone of the country, where beef cattle are bred of an excellent quality for which Argentina is world renowned. On arrival at the ranch, drinks are served before a pleasant ride through the countryside on a horse-drawn cart. Afterwards, sit down to an absolutely enormous lunch where you will be treated to the traditional cuisine Asado, or beef, grilled around (not on top of) an open fire whilst being constantly turned. Other meats like pork and chicken are also done ‘the ‘Gaucho’ way’. Vegetarians need not worry as there are plenty of salads and other vegetables available. Whilst sitting down to a meal that meat-eaters only dream of, you will be entertained through music, dance and folklore by Gauchos (roughly translated as ‘Casanova-cowboys’) and their ladies, dressed in traditional clothing. After lunch, be witness to a display of superb horsemanship as Gauchos, whilst galloping at incredible speed, spear a pointed rod through a key-ring sized metal loop hanging on a wire above them.
 
Whilst having a distinctly South American flavour, Buenos Aires boasts the organisation and conveniences of the First World. It is a great holiday destination and has something to offer everyone.
 
I recommend any holidaymaker put it on their to-do list without question – you will not be disappointed at this South American gem of a city.    
 
 

Zanzibar

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Last Updated on Monday, 27 April 2009 16:18 Written by Caroline Chaplin Monday, 27 April 2009 16:15

alt Zanzibar

The very name conjures up visions of winding cobbled streets, mysterious courtyards, Arab dhows, deserted beaches and the all pervading scent of exotic spices – and that vision is not far from fact.  Arab dhows have been trading along the East African coast for hundreds of years and found the archipelago of Zanzibar to be a convenient base for controlling the area.  Dhows are still sailing these waters though nowadays, instead of slaves and ivory, they carry passengers as a Dhow Cruise forms a legal and lucrative tourist attraction.

 

Part of Tanzania, the main islands are Zanzibar (known locally as Unquja) and Pemba, together with umpteen other islands, some inhabited and some not.

 

From ancient times a variety of adventurous peoples, from the Sumerians to the Arabs and the British, have inhabited these islands.  The British were instrumental in outlawing the slave trade and the Arabian legacy is the Islamic religion, followed by about 97 per cent of the population, the Kiswahili language, which is a combination of Arabic and local tongues, and some unique architecture.  

 

There is plenty of accommodation ranging from modest to five-star.  Alcohol is not served at most hotels and restaurants but these days it is acceptable for ladies to wear shorts, however visitors should respect local sensibilities.  When it comes to eating out Zanzibar believes in supporting the local fishing industry, so lobster, crab, prawns and other seafood figure prominently on the menu.

 

Beaches:

 

Zanzibar’s brilliantly white beaches are legendary and so numerous that visitors are spoiled for choice.  Nungwi in the north is popular with the youth as there’s always something going on.  It’s a lively town with good hotels and is a convenient base from which to explore the area and watch locals plying their trade using traditional methods. The road to Nungwi beach is edged with coconut trees, banana palms and mangroves.  

 

On the west coast Mangapwani beach is worth a visit, and there are numerous beautiful and deserted beaches to the east. You can take a day trip to one of several off-shore islands for a real Robinson Crusoe experience.

 

To See:

 

Stone Town is usually referred to as “Historic Stone Town” as it has hardly changed in over 200 years.  It is believed to be the oldest town in East Africa that is still functioning and has recently been declared a World Heritage Site.  It is a maze of contradictions as well as alleyways and narrow winding streets, with busy bazaars, beautiful mosques, extreme poverty and more than 500 impressive Arab houses with massive, heavily carved and brass studded doors to protect the inhabitants.

 

The coralline rock of which the houses were constructed has eroded quite badly and the Stone Town Conservation Authority has stepped in with a renovation project to halt the deterioration and bring the town up to scratch without changing its character.   Most of the major hotels are in renovated buildings, which gives them a certain individual charm, while other historical buildings now perform different functions from those originally intended.

 

The Arab Fort was built around 1700 and is open to the public.  Genuine battlements surmount its lofty brown walls and the fort is big enough to contain shops and an open-air theatre. 

 

The Old Dispensary on the seafront was originally intended as a Hospital and is now the Cultural Centre, also housing a restaurant, shops and offices.  Building began in 1885 but was only completed in 1894.  It became a Dispensary with apartments in 1900 but the inhabitants fled during the revolution of 1964 and the building fell into Government hands.  After considerable research the local branch of the Aga Khan Trust for Culture commenced restoration in 1994, exactly 100 years after the building was completed.   It is an excellent example of Zanzibarian architecture and sensitive restoration.  

 

Livingstone’s House was used by many missionaries and explorers, of which David Livingstone was probably the most famous.

 

The House of Wonders, next to the Old Dispensary, was the first building on the island to have electricity.  It is one of the biggest buildings in Zanzibar, with several storeys, a multitude of balconies and pillars and its own clock tower.  It will probably house the National Museum in due course.

 

The Palace Museum was originally the Sultan’s Palace.  After the 1964 revolution it was renamed the People’s Palace and in 1994 it was converted into a museum and received its third and current name. The history of the sultans is traced with displays of furniture and other royal possessions.

 

You cannot leave Stone Town without visiting The Market, a vibrant and noisy area stocked with produce from all over the island.  It is said that you can buy and sell virtually anything at the Market.  The brightly coloured khangas, worn by local women, make ideal souvenirs.  

Another interesting purchase is the game known as 

 

“Mancala Board.”  The board itself has two rows of six hollows and players can use any kind of seed or bead as long as it is small enough for 12 or 15 of them to fit into one hollow.  A variety of games are played with the Mancala Board but they all have different rules.  When bargaining for your game, make sure you get the Rules as well.  Local entrepreneurs have developed a keen marketing strategy where customers only find out AFTERWARDS that they have to buy the rules separately, so they pay twice for the same game.

 

Other Islands:

 

Pemba, the other main island, is smaller than Zanzibar and has a more undulating landscape, the highest point being about 100m.  It’s a green and fertile land with dense forests and plantations and a thriving clove industry.  Without a doubt it is a beautiful place, with wide sandy beaches, historical sites and superb scuba diving, but it is not quite ready for a huge tourist influx, which is part of its attraction.  It’s an ideal destination for adventurers and nature lovers who enjoy roughing it.  There are a few small guesthouses with modest facilities, but don’t expect five star hotels.

 

Places to visit include the lovely Ngezi Forest Reserve and nearby Misali Island, where the 17th century pirate Captain Kidd is supposed to have taken refuge in between pillaging passing ships.  There is a bus service but few taxis or other forms of transport, so be prepared to do a lot of walking if you want to get around.   

 

There are four ways to get there by air.  Airlink operates direct flights between Johannesburg and Pemba, Charter flights operate between Zanzibar and Pemba on most days. Groups are advised to charter their own plane.   Flights from mainland Dar es Salaam go via Zanzibar and there is a direct flight between Pemba and the mainland city of Tanga.  Prices vary and the airport tax of US$2.50 must be paid in local currency.

 

By ship from Zanzibar the journey takes from three to six hours.If you are leaving from the mainland there’s a service from Dar es Salaam via Zanzibar that operates three times a week.

It would be pleasant to board a dhow in Zanzibar and arrive in Pemba after a romantic cruise, but for some reason this method is not available to tourists.  It is, however, legal to travel by dhow from Tanga on the mainland – provided you can find someone to take you, as the services are unpredictable.

 

Mafia island has a long and bloody history going back at least 2000 years.  During that time is has been ruled by Arabs, Portuguese, Germans and British (but no Sicilians!) before becoming part of Tanzania.  The Islanders grow fruits, vegetables and nuts, especially coconuts and cashews.  The birdwatching and archaeological ruins alone make Mafia worth visiting.  Its forests and islands are in a Marine Park and there’s a long coral reef protecting a clear bay with wonderful diving and snorkelling.   

 

The private island of Pemba has a coral reef that attracts many water sports enthusiasts with its excellent opportunities for scuba diving and snorkelling. 

 

Zanzibar is not famous for its Big Five.  There are no large wild animals but visitors might be lucky enough to encounter monkeys, antelopes, civets and bush-pigs in the more forested areas.  You may hear tell of a legendary Zanzibar Leopard but it is doubtful that you will meet anybody who has actually seen it.  Add the wide variety of birdlife, numerous species of mongoose and hosts of butterflies in country areas and you’ll see that there is plenty to attract wildlife enthusiasts on land as well as in the sea.   

by Rosemarie Lewis

   

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